Pio hack: overalls

Tina Biard @tina_biard.ds (who runs the blog Cosedura) prepared a pattern hacking to turn the Pio pants into overalls!

I fell in love with Tina's pattern hacking, I particularly like the back loop detail, simple and smart. Tina was inspired by the overalls of the character of Lady Di in the series "The crown".

The original pattern pieces for the pants are to be used identically except for the waistbands where adjustments will be necessary. However, it is necessary to draft additional pattern pieces for the bib, pocket and back loop. Regarding the fabric, you will need about 80 cm of additional fabric + 80 cm for the lining and a 5 cm wide elastic.

Drafting the bib

The measurements indicated in the photo above correspond to a size 36/38 adapt them according to your morphology.

To build the overalls' bib, measure the distance between your bust points (nipples) (line A) and the distance between your belly button and the top of your chest (line B).

1. Draw the top line of the bib (A + 2 cm seam allowance).
2. From the center of this line, draw a perpendicular line (B + 2 cm seam allowance).
3. Then, draw the bottom of the bib (A + 10 cm)
4. Finally, draw the sides of the bib.

The measurements indicated in the photo above correspond to a size 36/38 adapt them according to your morphology and the bib size.

The bib pocket (drawing under the G pattern piece)

Follow the shape of the drawing in the photo above and adapt the measurements according to the size of your bib.

The back loop (drawing next to the G pattern piece).

Draw a trapezoid shape about 10 cm at the base and 7 cm at the top and 10 cm high. You can adapt the size of this piece according to your body type.

The belts (pieces H and G)

Reduce the width of the back and front waistbands to 7.5 cm.

The strap

Draw two rectangles 6 cm wide. TIP: To calculate the length of the strap, once you have finished assembling your overalls, slip your measuring tape through the loop on the back. Try on your overalls and your measuring tape will give you the right length.

The pattern pieces

• Bib : 1x main fabric ; 1 x lining
• Bib pocket : 1x main fabric 
• Strap : 2x main fabric 
• Back loop : 2x main fabric (on fold)
• Front waistband : 1x main fabric (on fold) ; 1x lining (on fold)
• Back waistband : 1 x main fabric (on fold) ; 1 x lining (on fold)

Are you ready to sew ?

For the pants, follow the sew along until step 18.

Serge the raw edges of the pocket. Fold serged edges to wrong sides by 1 cm and press.

Topstitch the top of the pocket.

Place the pocket on top of the bib, with the right side of both pieces facing up. Topstitch down the bottom edges of the pocket. You can use a double needle to achieve a workwear look. 

Sew the bib and bib lining together using a 1 cm seam allowance, leave the bottom unstitched.

Notch the angles, turn right side out and press.

Serge the front waistbands.
Position the bottom of the bib sandwiched between the front waistband (main fabric) and the front waistband (lining fabric) right sides together. Stitch with a 1 cm seam allowance.

Turn to right side and press.

The back loop

Pin the two back loops right sides together. Stitch the long sides with a 1 cm seam allowance. Turn right side out and press.

Serge the back waistbands.
Position the bottom of the loop sandwiched between the back waistband (main fabric) and the back waistband (lining fabric) right sides together. Stitch with a 1 cm seam allowance.

Turn to right side and press.

Open the waistbands. Pin the front and back waistbands right sides together and stitch the small edges with a 1 cm seam allowance.

Press.

Attaching the waistband to the pants

To attach the waistand to the pants, you can choose to follow the original sewing pattern instructions or sew along (step 19 to 27) or the following ones. 

Open the waistband and pin the front waistand (main fabric) and back waistband (main fabric) to the pants, right sides together. Stitch with a 1 cm seam allowance.

Fold the waistband lining towards the inside of the pants. Press and pin to secure in place.

Edgstitch from the right side (leave a 5 cm opening).

Insert the elastic into the casing, join the two ends of the elastic and close the opening.

The strap

Sew the straps right sides together leaving a 7 cm opening. Turn right side out, press and close the opening.

Insert the strap through the back loop. Try on the overalls to adjust the length of the strap. Now it's up to you to use a button closure or classic overall hardware (buckles and buttons)!

Thank you Tina for this pattern hacking showing once again that with a single sewing pattern and a little patience we can work miracles! I can picture these pretty overalls in a dress version ... who's up for a tutorial?

Happy sewing!