Behind the scene: Essential sewing tools

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It's been quite some time now that I want to share with you my favorite tools for sewing. These are the sewing tools that I use the most. With so many sewing tools out there, here’s some help picking the best. Hopefully this will be helpful……and can also be used as a “hint-hint birthday list” to pass on to a husband/friend etc. You have to know that I'm a "less is more" kind of girl. I hate gadgets and I will share with you what I think is really necessary.

FABRIC SCISSORS

This is my minimal scissors' collection, I don't own any fancy looking scissors like the famous stork bird scissors. From left to right: 

- My very FAVORITE pair of scissors!  They are heavy, really sharp, and slice through fabric like butter. I would suggest you buy tailor’s scissors if you can afford them: they last nearly forever and can be sharpened when they start cutting less.

- My orange Fiskars, I'm using them to cut my muslins. They are good and reliable.

- I'm using the small embroidery scissors just to cut thread tails and avoid to cut fabric too, in the meantime! The Curved Blades allow safer Controlled Cuts.

- The little black scissors are coming from Merchant&Mills. Good at cutting tight corners and little snips the fabric. I love them as they are tiny, sharp and precise. 

PAPER SCISSORS

These are basic scissors for cutting paper, but it's more or less a copy of the Fiskars scissors ;-( I picked them up because they are big and orange so it is easy to spot them in my white studio... but I need to replace them by a real pair of Fiskars.

STUDIO BASICS

- I'm not really picky when it comes to seam rippers as long as they unpick. I'm using this foldable ripper from Bohin. I like to have a lot of seam rippers in my studio, one near my sewing machine, another one near my cutting table, one near my ironing board etc... I may have 6 or 7 seam rippers in my studio.

- I hate thick pins with a fancy flower or heart or whatever on the end. I only swear by the super-fine pins by Bohin or fine glass head pins. I've tried the ultra-fine black pins by Merchant&Mills but I did not like the texture of it.

- I also have a bunch of tape measure in my studio/ All of them are yellow and orange so it is easy to spot them in my white studio.

BUTTONHOLES

Nothing makes a garment look homemade faster than a poorly sewn and cut buttonhole. These tools will help you achieve a professional look to your home made garments.

- Fray check is really usefull when it comes to buttonholes. Place a “line” of Fray-check in between the 2 rows of zig-zag stiching of each buttonhole and let dry. I love this little glue and I'm using it every time I sew a buttonhole. It's a shame they don't sell bigger bottles.

- Also of crucial importance is a buttonhole cutter. So much faster and safer than using a seam ripper to open up buttonholes – never accidentally fray your buttonhole again! I'am using the buttonhole cutter from Clover. I also found this beautiful wood vintage thing that is not a buttonhole cutter but looks like a buttonhole cutter but it needs to be shapened. 

SNAP FASTENERS

If you prefer snap fasteners than buttons I definitely recommend Vario pliers from Prym. There are already plenty of tutorials on how to use it, so I don't think it is necessary for me to dig more into the subject.

MARKING TOOLS

When working on a prototype made in a light colored fabric, I'am using the Trickmarker from Prym. It leaves an easy to see mark that is self-erasing and dispears within 1 or 2 days. You can also use the Roller ball from Frixion but I've noticed that  sometimes it leaves a white trace on the fabric...

If I'm not able to use the Trickmarker, I'll use a tailor chalk or any kind of chalk, but I'm not much of a fan of chalks.

MARKING TOOLS FOR MUSLINS

When I'm working on a new pattern, I'am generally sewing tons and tons of muslins before finding the right shape and fit. Everytime I have to transfer the notches, seam allowances, darts etc... onto my fabric. I'm using carbon paper and a tracing wheel. This is my favorite technique to ensure that I'am really accurate when sewing. This tracing wheel is coming from my great grand-mother.

That's it! This is all I need.

One of my advice if you are lucky enough to have your own sewing room, is to double your most-used sewing tools. It can be really handy to have 2 or 3 seam rippers and several tape measure in your sewing room to save your energy and stay focus on sewing instead of looking for a seam ripper everywhere in the room ;-) (You can also wear your seam ripper as a necklace and wear a pin cushion as a bracelet....  it's up to you).

What is the sewing tool you can't leave whithout?

Comments

Created On vendredi, novembre 10, 2023 Posted By Christine Comment Link
Si tu n'as pas encore acheté tes ciseaux à papier, tu pourrais te prendre des ciseaux de modélistes pour le papier et le carton. Comme les bons ciseaux de tailleur, ils sont tout métal, aiguisables ( mais je ne l'ai jamais fait en 35 ans) avec des lames courtes, alors que les bras opposés que l'on tient en main sont plus longs pour donner plus de force au mouvement. Je ne pourrais pas l'expliquer mais je les trouve faciles et précis, rien à voir avec des ciseaux type Fiscars. Au début de ma carrière, je coupais du carton, maintenant, je m'en sers moins souvent et plutôt pour du papier mais j'ai toujours autant de plaisir à les utiliser
Created On samedi, janvier 30, 2021 Posted By Noëlle Didierlaurent Comment Link
Bonsoir, j'ai trouvé votre site en cherchant " transformation forte poitrine ".
J'ai donc utilisé vos conseils, mes cours de coupe sont loin (1984) pour la couture pas de souci.
Je donne des cours " B.A ba" couture pour une association, mais dans la panade actuellement à cause du virus.
J'ai mis vos coordonnées sur notre site (apresdemain28).
Created On mercredi, janvier 22, 2020 Posted By Géraldine Coullaud-Boudy Comment Link
Intéressant ! L'ouvre-boutonnière est mon prochain achat, c'est vrai que le découds-vite n'est pas idéal pour ça (et j'ai l'impression qu'il s'use plus vite). J'ajouterais à ta liste : un retourne-biais, des poids (rondelles en acier toutes bêtes) pour maintenir le papier calque sur le patron à recopier et le patron sur le tissu, une petite pince coudée de chirurgie pour retourner les angles (pointes de col par exemple) sans crante.

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