New pattern: The Joe blazer

Joe is the androgynous blazer archetype, with a notched collar, slightly fitted cut, button, and welt flap pockets. No more, no less.

Above is Joe’s mood board. I was simply inspired by the masculine blazer. I love the idea of a masculine garment being worn by women. I envisage wearing Joe with a short skirt and ankle boots, or even matching trousers.

When designing Joe, I was particularly interested in creating an archetype of the androgynous jacket, without adding any details. Just a simple blazer. Except for my personal touch; the angular flap pockets which is the little Ready to Sew touch. The angle of the flaps draws your attention towards the front, thus having a slimming effect.

Joe’s pattern offers two notched collar options: a small, classically proportioned collar; and another with a large collar flap. You can give your jacket a pea jacket style by matching, for example, the second option with a chevron-patterned fabric.

What fabric to use for Joe?

The sewing pattern Joe calls for a medium-weight fabric like wool, prince of Wales, chevron, tartan, English velvet… or even wool crêpe, gabardine and cotton-linen mix for the mid-season. The blazer is partially interface, however, if you want a less structured, more fluid cut, you can choose to just use interfacing for the under collar, the pockets and the hems. It is important to choose your fusible wisely. I have the following advice for all my testers:

Entoilage tissé thermocollant - Tissus jersey & Lainages

Joe’s pattern is completely lined. Lining the jacket makes it more comfortable and firm, and gives it volume, as the air rushes between the lining and jacket, better enveloping the wearer. Choosing the right lining is important. It should be as fluid as the outer fabric and help your jacket to slip over your clothes. Choose a type of silk, or a mix of silk and polyester, and avoid cotton and other crinkly fabrics.

Joe’s pattern is classed as "Expert" due to the notched collar, the welt flap pockets and sewing the lining. Notched collars require precision and a little courage! However, no need to panic because there are precise instructions and an image tutorial to help you while sewing! You can also download demo patterns on my blog to practive before sewing your "real Jacket" for the notched collar, the welt pockets and the lining.

I already want to make another Joe blazer. I’m thinking of an English velvet version, or simple corduroy, or even navy-blue wool, or checks... but I think I will go for a navy-blue wool and will replace the welt pockets by patch pockets for the next one for a more casual style. Will keep you updated ;-)

I hope that you will like Joe! Get to your machines, your scissors and fabrics!