Pattern hack: The jean-Paul boilersuit with a zip front, part 1

Today, we are going to see together how to hack the sewing pattern of the Jean-Paul boilersuit to obtain a zipper on the front. Thanks you so much Michèle for this great tutorial, let's dive right in!

Note that sewing this version is very simplified compared to the original pattern, but, in order to be able to transform Jean-Paul into a zip front jumpsuit, we will need to alter the pattern.

PATTERN ALTERATIONS :

Front bodice A  

Fold the front pleat up and tape it.

Draw the center front line (red) and the seam allowance line 1 cm further (green line). Cut at the green line.

We are going to "visually" remove the waistband from the original sewing pattern, but we will have to transfer the width of this belt to the front bust in order not to lose some length. Extend part A by 2.5 cm.

Front pant H

Draw the center front line (red) and the seam allowance line (green at 1 cm from the center front) which is thus in the extension of the crotch.

Cut along the green line.

Tape A and H together.

Back bodice B 

Fold the back pleat up and tape it.

Add 1 cm of seam allowance to the center back.

Extend part B by 2.5 cm.

Tape edge to edge B to K (the center backs are aligned).

Lay the pattern on a large piece of scrap paper. Blend the side seam and cut along your new line.

Redraw the back dart so that it is perpendicular to the connection line.

Extend the center line of the dart up to the top of the previous bodice back dart. Draw the new dart.

Collar F 

Extend the collar by 2 cm at the center.

Well done! You're done with the pattern alterations! We still have to draft the front and back facings and that's it.

Front facing A'

On the shoulder, draw a line 6 cm away from the neckline. Then draw a line 4 cm away from the center front. Use a curved platic ruler, to join the two lines.

The facing length will be equal to the Zip length + 4 cm (approx 50 cm + 4 cm).

Trace the facing A'

Back facing B' 

On the shoulder, draw a line 6 cm away from the neckline. Then draw a line 4 cm away from the center back. Use a curved platic ruler, to join the two lines.

Trace the back facing B'.

Pattern pieces :

• Front AH x2
• Back BK x2
• Collar F x2 au pli
• Bodice front pocket D x2
• Front pocket I x4
• Back pocket L x2
• Front facing A’ x2
• Back facing B’ x1 on fold

If you are making the long-sleeved jumpsuit, you will need the long sleeve G and sleeve cuff Q pattern pieces.

If you are making the short sleeve version, you will need the short sleeve G pattern piece.

The last pieces to draw will be the belt, a strip long enough to go around your waist and 10 cm wide (seam allowances included) and the loops, these are small rectangles of fabric to be placed in the side seams after you have tried the jumpsuit to determine their placement.

Now make sure the length of the pattern is right for you. In this version, the jumpsuit will be cinched at the waist with a removable belt. We don't need the same ease for a straight jumpsuit or a cinched waist jumpsuit. Cinching the waist with a belt and loosening the bust a little above the belt allows, in positions where you bend down to pull almost only on the bust thanks to the belt and the fullness created by the bust over the belt. On the other hand, on a non-fitted boilersuit, we pull on the entire garment, therefore we need more ease in length. In short, the zipped and cinched version of Jean-Paul will surely allow you to remove 1.5 cm to 2 cm in length (in the case of a height similar to the pattern, ie 165 cm). I invite you to take the front A, to look at yourself in a mirror with the bust placed on your body. Line up the center front, shoulder and neckline. This will help you see if the length is right.

Gather your supplies: a 4 mm wide and 55 cm long nylon zip and your fabric and follow the sew along!