Sew along, The Partner overalls expansion pack

Sew along with us as we walk you through making the Partner overalls expansion pack! First you’re going to need to gather the supplies you’ll need to sew a perfect Partner!

Supplies:

• Fabric (for the fabric head back to the instructions to know what kind of fabric you need and the yardage)
• Fabric used for this sew along is a white selvedge denim, 13 oz from Citron jeans. 
• The facing is an organic coton poplin, 130 g/sqm from Rascol.

• -Drawstring cord 5 mm (3/16") diameter
• -2 metal eyelets 5 mm (3/16") internal diameter
• -One pair of 4 cm (1.5”) overall buckles & buttons
• -One pair of 4 cm (1.5”) adjustable sliders
• -16 cm (6 5/16") of 4 cm (1.5”) wide elastic
• -2 cord ends
• -1 x Matching thread
• -1 x Contrasting thread

Additional information:

• -Always topstich with the garment right sides up.
• -Use topstitch thread as your spool only (on top of your machine), with regular thread that matches your fabric in the bobbin.
• -Lengthen the stitches to 3.5 or 4 mm to create a straighter-looking line.
• -Choose a matching thread to serge the bib facing and the waist of the pants.

Line the top of the knee reinforcement (A):
With right sides together, pin the lining (B) and the reinforcement (A) together at the top and inside edge (leaving open the edge that will be caught in the seam). Sew the pieces together. 

Clip the curves and trim the corners.   

Turn right side out, press well, ensuring the angles and edges are smooth and the lining doesn’t  show on the right side.
Fold and press the raw edges of the bottom of the reinforcement to the wrong side 1 cm (leaving open the left side of the reinforcement, which will be caught in the side seams of the pants).  Start by folding the side edge of the reinforcement, followed by the bottom edge.

Pin the knee reinforcement to the left front (E).  The wrong side of the reinforcement should be pinned to the right side of the front.
Topstitch the reinforcement on three sides, leaving the side open, as it will be sewed with the side seam of the pant leg.  The first row should be 2 mm from the folded edge,  and the second row of topstitching should be 4 mm from the first row. 

Sew two tight zigzag stitches on the bottom of the reinforcement (divide the width of the reinforcement in three), as well as on the inside corner of the top of the reinforcement (length 0.6 mm, zigzag width 3 mm). 

For size range 2, sew the front dart.   

With right sides together, pin and sew the pocket lining (C) to the pocket opening of the front pattern piece (E).  

Clip the curve and press the lining towards the wrong side of the pocket opening and topstitch to ensure the lining stays in place. The first row should be 2 mm from the edge,  and the second row of topstitching should be 4 mm from the first row. 

With right sides together, pin and sew the pocket facings together (D) and (D’), ensuring the curves of the pocket are lined up. Serge the seam allowances together and press them to the bottom.  

Topstitch to ensure they remain in place. 

Assemble the pocket facing to the pocket lining. With pant leg (E) right side facing down, place the pocket facing on top of the pocket lining, right sides together.  Pin the edges.  Sew the pocket facing to the pocket lining to create the pocket bag.  Serge the seam allowance together.  

In order to secure the pocket bag to the pant leg, sew a small row of basting stitches on the top and at the sides. Repeat for the other leg. 

With right sides together, pin the front center seam. Beginning at the notch, stitch at 4.5 cm from the edge of the fly (For range 2 this line is slighly curved) and continue to the end of the crotch. Serge the flys together, as well as the seam allowances of the crotch.

Press the fly and seam allowances towards the left side of the garment (as worn). With pants right sides up, topstitch 2 mm from the center seam.

With the pants right sides up, topstitch the fly 4 cm from the center seam and continue to the end of the crotch. Topstitch again 3,6 cm from the center seam and stop at the end of the fly.

Sew a tight row of zigzag stitches to reinforce the fly, at the bottom of the fly where the topstitching meets.

Back patch pocket (G):
Serge the sides and the bottom of the pocket.
Press the top of the pocket to the wrong side by 1 cm.

Turn the pocket over so you can see the front and press the top down the top by 1.5 cm, right sides together. 

Sew a row of stitches 1  cm from the edge to keep the folds in place. Clip the upper top corners.

Turn the pocket right side out and press the other sides of the pocket to the wrong side by 1 cm. Start by folding the side edges of the pocket, followed by the bottom edge of the pocket. 

Topstitch the top of the pocket. The first row of topstitching should be 8 mm from the top edge and the second row of topstitching should be 4 mm from the first row.  

Pin the pocket to the right side of the back leg (F) matching up the markings. Topstitch the pocket in pace. The first row should be 2 mm from the folded edge,  and the second row of topstitching should be 4 mm from the first row. 

To reinforce the pocket, make a tight zigzag stitch on the corners of the top of the pocket (length 0.6 mm, zigzag width 3 mm). Repeat for the other leg. 

With right sides together, pin and sew the right front pant leg to the right back pant leg at the sides. Serge the seam allowances together and press to the back.

Topstitch the seam allowances. The first row should be 2 mm from the side seam, and the second row of topstitching should be 4 mm from the first row. 

Next, topstitch the side of the knee reinforcement. The first row should be 2 mm from the side seam, and the second row of topstitching should be 4 mm from the first row. 

Repeat for the left pant legs.

With right sides together, pin and sew the back leg pieces at the crotch. Stitch from the waist to the bottom of the crotch. Finish the seam together and press to the right.

Topstitch the entire back center seam.  The first row of topstitching should be 2 mm from the edge and the second row of topstitching should be 4 mm from the first row.  

With right sides together, pin and sew the front and back legs together at the inseam. Finish the seam allowances together and press to the back. Turn the pants right side out and topstitch the inseam allowances 2 mm from the initial seam to reinforce. Stitch as far as you can.

To hem the pants, press the bottom of each pant leg to the wrong side by 1,5 cm. Press again by 1,5 cm and topstitch. 

Serge the raw edge of the waist. To sew the bib, follow the original Partner instructions, beginning at step 32 or the sew along.