Do you have any plans to increase the Pablo size range ?

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To my great regret, the Pablo sewing pattern is not available in range 2 - sizes 46 to 58.

After many tests and fittings on my Alvanon dress form and real pepole, I had to admit that this pattern did not work beyond a certain size. I couldn't get a nice crease on the front bib. The pattern cannot be enlarged beyond a certain point, it loses its initial proportions and a surplus of fabric forms on the front bib (which has nothing to do with a bust dart). It would have to be widened homothetically, but that induces grading in length which is not at all in line with the way the body evolves.

I tried several times to find a solution to absorb this excess fabric by creating a dart or cutting the pattern into several pieces, but in addition to making the assembly more complex, it was never visually satisfying.

I'm sad not to be able to offer this pattern beyond size 46, however, I refuse to do some size washing by pretending to offer an inclusive pattern even though it doesn't fit well.

On the other hand, as disappointed as I am, I choose to launch the pattern even if the range of sizes is limited. Pablo still covers 7 sizes, these sizes cover 70% of the French population.

This is the story of the Pablo apron/overalls :


I started working on this pattern more than 3 years ago for my personal wardrobe. I wanted a garment I could throw on my swimsuit when I was doing some natural dyeing. An apron ? Yes… but something that could cover my body enough so I would feel ok if someone came. A pair of overalls ? Yes… but easy to put on and off and a quick sew with no more material than thread and fabric. An overall/apron combo ? Hell yeah ! 

It was not meant to be a commercial pattern. I made 2 or 3 toiles and a final version in an old linen sheet but liked it so much that I started wearing it outside. I wore it several times during the summer 2020 and received some compliments each time and was asked the famous "where did you buy it ?". Same thing the following summer. After a while, I thought it was time for Pablo to cover other bodies than mine.

Screenshot from my phone, photo taken in May 2020.

Usually, I develop my patterns not for myself, but for my brand. I therefore always draft in the middle size of my range 1 and my range 2 in parallel, I never use my own body to develop a sewing pattern. But this time, the development was done in a much more empirical way and so I discovered much later that I could not grade this pattern as much as I wanted. Don't get me wrong, I did a special drafting for my range 2 using my plus size blocks, I didn't directly grade my original pattern.

I ended up with something I didn't like and it took me some time to understand where the issue was coming from. 

If you really like Pablo but don't fit in the size chart, stay updated and keep hope! I'm testing a similar version, but without the front fold on the bib. If it works then Pablo V2 will be available beginning of July ;-)

EDIT July 2023: A promise is a promise, the Pincha sewing pattern, similar to Pablo is now available. He is graded from size 32 to 60 (i.e. hips 89 cm to 157 cm).

Tags: pablo


Created On jeudi, mai 18, 2023 Posted By Emily Comment Link
Hi there, I'm a size 50(ish) and just wanted to say that your patterns are a joy to sew and wear, and I will gladly wait for a larger version of Pablo. I really appreciate your in-depth writing about your process. Thanks for thinking of us larger sewists. Merc!!

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