How to make a FBA on the Paloma dress
The Paloma dress is designed for a B/C cup for range 1 and D/E for range 2. Beyond these cup sizes you will need to do an FBA (full bust adjustment).
Here is a tutorial that will guide you in a few steps, it is mainly visual.
The bust shape for range 1 is different but that doesn't change the process.
First, refer to the beginning of this tutorial to understand how to take your measurements correctly, how to choose the right size and how many centimeters to add to your pattern then you can follow the 12 steps to alter your pattern.
What is a bust adjustment?
A Full bust adjustment will create more space and ease at the front of the top only, which is done by increasing the size of the dart. It means instead of increasing the circumference of the top all the way around to accommodate the bust (which will make the armholes too big) it just adds more space at the front for the bust. We want to add more fabric so there is enough space for the fabric to go up and over the bust and also around the bust. A small bust adjustment will do the opposite. It decreases the amount of excess fabric over the bust by reducing the size of the dart.
What size should I pick?
If you think you need to do a bust adjustment but you don't know what pattern size to pick first then you need take two measurements:
- The upper bust: This is the area of your chest right below your underarm.
- The full bust : This should be around your ribcage and over your bust apex, parallel to the ground.
If the difference between your high bust measurement and full bust measurement is more than 5 cm (2 inches), then it will confirm that you need to do an adjustment.
- 2,5 cm (1″) is a A cup
- 5 cm (2″) is a B cup
- 7,5 cm (3″) is a C cup
- 10 cm (4'') is a D cup
Again, don’t worry if this is very different from your actual bra cup size! Choose your pattern size based on your high bust measurement + 5 cm (2'') because the pattern is already drafted for a B cup.
To calculate your bust cup :
Ex: Hight bust measurement= 87cm / Full bust measurement= 95 cm
95 cm - 87 cm = 8 cm the Cup size is C
To pick your size :
- Hight bust measurement + 5 cm (87 cm + 5 cm) = 92 cm you will choose 40 in Ready to sew' size chart.
To know the amount you have to adjust the pattern by :
- Full bust measurement - 92 cm (95 cm - 92 cm) = 3 cm
As you are working on half of the front bodice you need to half 3 cm, which gives 1,5 cm. This is how much you will adjust the pattern piece by, we call that the bust differential. Let's go !
In figure 13 you can see the difference between the bust before and after adjustment. As you can see, the bottom of the new bodice is larger than the original bodice. You need to modify the front skirt according to this. Measure the front bodice and the front skirt waistline and add the centimeters needed to the skirt waistline.
That's it, you're ready, you don't have to change anything else. The value of dart in diagram 11 has gone into the gathered neckline, you are left with only one dart as for the original bust.
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