Pincha, lengthening / shortening
The Pincha wrap overalls are drafted for an average hight of 167 cm for the range 1 or 168 cm for range 2 so if you differ from that, you might need to do some pattern adjustments. Lengthening and shortening your pattern pieces is pretty straighforward, cut on the lengthen/shorten lines and apply your length changes between them.
- Bib line (green line on the drawing above): you will want to work from this line if you need to alter the bib length or if you need to make a FBA or SBA.
- Rise line (pink line on the drawing above): you will want to work from this line if you need to alter the rise (the length between the waist and the full hips).
- Leg line (blue line on the drawing above): you will want to work from this line if you need to alter leg length.
If you have a long or short torso or rise you may want to only adjust the upper portion using line 1 or 2. Maybe your rise fits great but you have long legs. In that case you’d want to adjust the lower portion using the line 3. If you’re proportioned evenly but are just taller or shorter than the pattern is drafted then we recommend splitting the amount you need to adjust between the upper and lower adjustment lines.
EX: you are 174 cm tall and the pattern is drafted for 168 cm, the difference between your hight and the pattern's hight is 6 cm. We will assume that these 6 cm are distributed in the body as follows: 3 cm at the level of the upper body and 3 cm at the level of the lower body. Distribute the 3 cm between the 3 lines.
Please note that the pattern from range 1 and 2 are different. The pattern from range 2 has a bust dart and hte front is divided into two pieces but the process for shortening / lengthening is exactly the same.
1 - Cut the pattern on the lengthen / shorten line.
2 - Slide a piece of paper underneath. Separate the pattern pieces the desired amount. Tape the pattern pieces on the paper, redraw the side seam and center seam and then trim any excess paper.
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