Pincha, choosing the right size and blending between sizes

The Pincha sewing pattern is a wrap overalls. It wraps around your hips and ties at the waist. It has an unsual shape but once you get the hang of tying these, they're a breeze to put on and off. But first, lets dive into choosing the right size for your particular silhouette!

To choose which size to print and cut you need to take the following measurements:

Spread your feet hip-width apart, no more no less, breathe normally, don't tuck your belly in. Do not squeeze the tape measure around your waist and hips, you should be able to slip your little finger between the tape measure and your skin.

• - Your waistline, at the thinnest part of your torso, a little above the belly button.
• - Your full hips circumference, the larger part of your lower body.

• -If your waist measurement fall in a smaller size than your hips measurement, go with the hips size or grade between size if your waist-to-hip ratio is very important.
• -If your waist measurement fall in a bigger size than your hip measurement go with the waist size unless your waist-to-hip ratio is very important in which case you'll have follow this tutorial to blend between the sizes.

RANGE 1

Exemple of an important waist-to-hip ratio : Waist 42 - Hip 38 and bust 38.

Step 1 : Print Pincha in the two sizes you need, i.e. 38 and 42.

Connect the bottom of the garment (just above the hem allowance) to the end of the waistline from size 38 to size 42 (black line on the drawing above).

- Connect the curve of the front bib from size 42 to size 38 (black line on the left drawing).

For the back, we are going to choose the back darts and the pockets placements according to the waist circumference, i.e. 42 in this exemple. 

Then trace the bottom of the pants according to your hips measurement (i.e. 38 in this exemple).

Voilà ! You end up with a garment that fits your waistline but is not too loose around your hips and legs.

RANGE 2

Exemple of an important waist-to-hip ratio : Waist 58 - Hip 52 and bust 52.

Step 1 : Print Pincha in the two sizes you need, i.e. 52 and 58.

1 - Connect the bottom of the garment (just above the hem allowance) to the end of the waistline from size 52 to size 58 (black line on the drawing above).

2 - Connect the top of bib (A') from size 52 to a size in between 52 and 58. For the front (A), connect the waist from size 58 to a size in between the size 52 and 58 (black line on the drawing above).

3 - Back (B), draw a new dart in between the darts from size 52 and 58, repeat for the pockets markings.

4 -  Front (A), draw a new dart in between the darts from size 52 and 58.

5 - Voilà ! A perfectly fitted pattern !

For the back pockets, draw a new rectangle in between size 52 and 58 to match the new pattern markings.
For the bib pocket, select the same size than pice (A').