New pattern: the Papao wrap pants
If you like pants but not zippers and buttonholes, you'll love Papao !
I'm very excited to announce the Papao wrap pants is finally here! The pattern is available from size 32 to 58. The instruction booklet is traduced in french, english and spanish.
Papao was inspired by the indian dhoti and the thaï Shan Baun-mi. It’s an asymetric peg pant with a unique wrap closure and a slightly cropped leg. It can be sewn with or without pocket. Because Papao does not require any closures (no zipper, buttons or snaps!), it is an ideal project for motivated beginners.
The Pépite collection was designed specifically for motivated beginners and seamstresses who love simple and quick projects. As I created this collection, I considered the following four requirements:
1 - The design must not require any notions apart from the fabric, thread and pattern (no zippers, no buttons, no snaps)
2 - All designs must be appropriate for advanced beginner to intermediate level sewers.
3 - The search for simplicity and ease in sewing should not be to the detriment of style and form.
4 - All patterns must call for a fabric that can be natural such as linen, hemp or ramie canvas. There is no point in blaming sewists for their use of rayon if we only design patterns that look good in those kind of fabrics.
The idea was to create a mini-collection with a sleek but nevertheless original design. The design that took the longest to develop was the Papao asymmetric pants. Creating pants without a zipper or buttons was a challenge, but one that I know well (#jumpyreadytosew)! And although the conception was time-consuming, it was an enjoyable process. So much so that I have already begun working on a third pattern, which I believe will become my trademark.
I've started working on this pattern during the summer 2019 just after the launch of the Jazz e-book. It was a very interesting pattern to work on but also not very easy. I had to make a lot of muslins to acheive a great fit and a perfect front pleat that will come back in place when you move and look nice (see video). Following are a few photos taken during the process. All prototypes are made with the same muslin (muslin is a lightweight cotton fabric that typically comes undyed), not very glamorous but very handy and cheap ;-)
The Papao wrap pants is rated as " intermediate ". The instructions are ; as usual ; very detailed and you can get some help by following the sew along ! It is a great pattern for an advanced beginner trying to stretch her skills. If you need to make alteration to the pattern to fit your measurements (Lengthening or shortening, enlarging crotch) you can follow these tutorials from the blog.
SUGESTED FABRICS AND NOTIONS
Light denim, twill, canvas, gabardine, batik, medium weight linen, hemp or ramie or medium weight wovens such as chambray, poplin. Avoid fluid fabrics such as tencel, cupro, rayon.
The fabrics used for the samples are:
- Anthracite-grey: recycled ancient cotton bed sheet home dyed in dark grey.
- Brown: recycled Twill Hemp/ Organic Cotton, golden brown by Siebenblau (The material is re-using leftover fabric scraps from textile production, saving valuable resources.)
- Purple: Batik from Tissu papi
Oui c'est possible, le tissu doit avoir un peu de tenue pour que le pli reste bien en place mais il ne faut pas un tissu trop rigide non plus ;-)
Le wax sera a priori un peu trop rigide. Un tissu avec un peu de tenue est tout a fait approprié au pantalon Papao mais le wax (comme son nom l'indique) est un tissu ayant reçu de la cire sur les deux faces. Le tissu est ainsi hydrophobe et le tombé est vraiment cassant et sans souplesse. Cependant, avec la mode du wax ces dernières années, je vois beaucoup de tissus vendus comme "wax" uniquement car ils ont le look, les motifs du wax mais le tissu n'est pas aussi ciré que le wax originel... donc en gros, un wax pas trop waxé c'est ok Papao ;-)