Sew along, the Jim overalls
Sew along with us as we walk you through making the Jim overalls! You will notice that the sew along can differ from the sewing instructions included in your download. First you’re going to need to gather the supplies you’ll need to sew a perfect Jim!
- Fabric (for the fabric head back to the instructions to know what kind of fabric you need and the yardage)
- 1 bobbin of regular thread matching the fabric color.
- 50 cm x 90 cm of light weight fusible interfacing
- The fabric used for this sew long is from "La mercerie Rascol" velours milleraies - Bordeaux
- 7 buttons, the one I used for the sew along are from "La mercerie Rascol" boutons corozo bord arrondi - Rouille 15 mm
- 4 D-rings 22 mm x 15 mm
Fold the two front pleats towards the inside of the pants. Following the markings, join the first line to the third line by folding the fabric. Pin to hold the pleat in place.
Topstitch your pleats 2 mm from the folded edge. Topstitch on 6 cm for the pleat n°1 and 7 cm on the pleat n°2.
Close darts on the two back pieces: fold to match the lines, iron and pin, then sew on the wrong side of fabric. End the seam with a knot instead of backstitches and iron the dart to the side of the trousers. Iron around the peak of the dart to avoid unwanted pleats.
The back pockets: fold in the top raw edge 1 cm to wrong side and press, fold again on 1 cm and press.
Fold in the raw edges 1 cm to wrong side and press.
Topstitch the top 8 mm from the edge.
Place the pocket on the pocket markings or adjust placement if desired. Sew around the sides and bottom of the pocket 3 mm from the edge. Press.
Place the front pocket pouch (C) on front pants/shorts, right sides together. Sew along the curved pocket entrance.
Press seam allowances open.
Then press the seam allowances towards the pocket pouch.
Understitch the seam allowances towards the pocket pouch. Turn the pocket pouch to wrong side of the shorts/pants.
Pin the front and back pocket pouch pieces right sides together.
Stitch along the outer curve. Serge the seams together. Baste the pocket pouch along the waistline and down the side seam, making sure that the pocket and shorts/pants panel are smooth and flat.
Stitch the right fly rectangles right sides together. Sew along one of the long edges and one of the small edges. Clip the corner and trim the seam allowance. Turn right side out. Press. Serge the raw edges together.
Pin the two fronts along the crotch seam with right sides touching. Stitch until you get to the dot on center front. Backstitch at dot to secure.
With right sides facing, pin the straight edge of the left fly to the center front edge of the left shorts/pants. Let the right front fall down and out of the way during this step. Stitch from the top down to the dot and stop, backstitching.
Press seam open. Flip the left fly to the inside of the left front, pin and press.
Starting at the top of the pants/shorts, sew the curved topstitching down the left fly, backstitching at the end. Sew at 1 cm from the curve edge.
Pin the right fly to the right front. Let the left side fall down and out of the way. Stitch from the waistline down until the dot. Backstitch to secure. Make sure that you are not catching the edge of the left fly in the process.
Pin the fly so that everything is laying flat and lined up. To help secure the fly, sew a small bartack through all layers at the bottom of the curved stitching.
Stitch the two backs along the crotch seam with right sides touching. Press seam allowances open.
Stitch your front and back pants/shorts together on the sides. Press seams open.
Stitch from the crotch point down to the hem. Press seam opens.
Stitch the waistbands right sides together. Press seams open. Please refer to the sewing pattern instructions for this step. We choose not to interface the inner waistband on this prototype because the fabric is thick and stable enough.
Stitch the dungaree tops right sides together. Press seams open. We choose not to interface the inner bib on this prototype because the fabric is thick and stable enough.
Stitch the waistband top edge to the bib bottom edge, right sides together. Press seams open.
Topstitch 2 mm from your stitching line.
This step differs from the original instructions due to the nature of the fabric.
Sew the two straps right sides together, along long edges. Trim the seam allowances to 5 mm.
Turn right side out.
Place your straps following the markings, stitch the dungaree tops right sides together keeping the straps in between.
Trim the seam allowances.
Turn right side out and press.
Pin and stitch the external side of the waistband to the pants/shorts, right sides facing, all around the waist. Press the seam up toward the waistband.
Fold the inner edge of the waistband 1 cm to wrong side. Pin the waistband in place.
Topstitch the waistband 2 mm from your stitching line. Topstitch the bib 2 mm from the outside edge.
Sew seven buttonholes on the left front and sew the corresponding buttons on the right front.
Hemming the overalls pants view: Transfer the cuff hem lines from your pattern on your pant legs.
Hemming the overalls short view: Fold the bottom of your overalls 1 cm to wrong side. Press. Fold again on 2 cm. Press. Topstitch 3 mm in from the edge.
Pin the second and fouth lines together by folding the pants wrong sides together.
Stitch on the first line.
Remove pins and free the cuff by folding it. Press. Tack the cuff in place at the inseam and the outside leg seam.
Install the D-rings on the bib.
Try on your garment and adjust the straps length keeping 2 cm to hem the straps ends.
Give your garment a good final press and wear it with pride!
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