Sew along, the penny overalls

In Sew alongs On vendredi 27 janvier 2023

Sew along with us as we walk you through the step by step sew along of the Penny overalls. The Penny overalls were inspired by traditional workwear. They have a larger cut, straight fit and multiple patch pockets. You can choose topstitching that matches your fabric or opt for contrasting thread. They are a durable garment with beautiful interior finishes that can be passed down from generation to generation.

Apply interfacing to the button tab (B), the bib 1 facing (K) the sides of bib facing 2 (L) and the pocket facing (H). Serge the pockets on three sides, leaving unfinished the small right side that will be caught in the seam.

Fold the top of the pocket 1.5 cm toward the inside and press. Topstitch 2 mm from the serged edge and then again 6 mm from the serged edge.

Fold the serged side of the pocket as well as the bottom of the pocket 1.5 cm toward the inside and press.

Pin the pocket to the right back leg (as worn), matching up the notches. Topstitch 2 mm, then again 6 mm from the folded edge. The top of the tool pocket will be covered by the back pocket later.

Serge the pocket edges (D). Fold the top edge 1.5 cm toward the wrong side and press. Topstitch 2 mm from the serged edge and then again 6 mm from the serged edge.

Fold the side and bottom edges of the pocket 1.5 cm toward the wrong side and press.

Pin the pocket to the right back leg, matching the notches (the pocket should overlap the top of the tool pocket- it’s totally normal). Topstitch the three sides 2 mm, then 6 mm from the folded edge. To reinforce the top of the pockets, use jeans rivets or a tight zigzag stitch at the two corners. Repeat for the other pocket.

With right sides together, pin the back bib (E) to the leg and sew. Careful: the seam allowance is only 1.5 cm for the patch pockets. The rest of the overalls are sewed with a 1 cm seam allowance.

Finish the seam allowances together. Press the seam allowance toward the top and topstitch at 2 mm, then again at 6 mm. Repeat for the other leg but press the seam allowance toward the bottom.

Serge the outside bottom legs, starting at the bottom and continuing through the button tab.

Fold the button tab 1 cm toward the wrong side and press.

Next, fold the button tab right sides together following the markings.

Sew the top of the tab 1 cm from the edge to keep the folds in place.

For the edge finish of the sides, use bias tape: Unfold the bias tape. With right sides together, pin it to the overall leg and sew in the folded crease. The bias tape should extend slightly past the button tab.

Flip the bias tape toward the wrong side of the overalls by folding it down. At the same time, flip the button tab toward the wrong side as well. Tuck the end of the bias tape into the button tab and press well. Use bias tape on the top of the back bib as well.

With the overalls facing up, topstitch the bias tape at 2 mm and again at 6mm from the edge. Topstitch the edge of the button tab to close it.

With right sides together, pin the overall straps (F) and sew three edges, leaving one of the short edges open. Trim the seam allowance to 5mm and clip the corners. Turn the straps to the right side and press. Tuck the edge of the open strap 1 cm toward the inside.

Insert the top of the back bib into the strap and topstitch in place.

Topstitch the outside edge of the strap. For continuity, use the topstitching from the bias tape as your guide. Repeat for the second strap.

With right sides together, pin and sew the two parts of the front bib (I).

Finish the seam allowances together and press them toward the left (as worn). Topstitch at 2 mm then again at 6mm from the edge.

Serge the bib pocket (J). Fold the top edge 1.5 cm toward the wrong side and press. Topstitch 2 mm from the serged edge and then again 6 mm from the serged edge. Fold the side and bottom edges of the pocket 1.5 cm toward the wrong side and press.

Pin the pocket to the front of the bib, matching the markings. Topstitch 2 mm and then again 6 mm from the folded edge. Reinforce the top corners of the pocket with a tight zigzag stitch.

Fold the bottom edge of the bib facing (K) 1 cm toward the wrong side and press.

With right sides together, pin the bib facing (K) to the bib. Sew the sides and the top together, leaving the bottom open.

Fold the top of bib 2 (L) 1 cm toward the wrong side and press.

With right sides together, pin bib facing 2 (L) to the bottom of the bib and sew the short sides.

For the edge finish of the sides of the bib, use bias tape: Unfold the bias tape. With right sides together, pin it to the bib sides, sew in the folded crease and leave the bias tape open.

Fold the bottom angled edge of the pocket facing (H) 5 mm towards the wrong side and press.

With right sides together, pin the pocket facing to the pocket bag (G). Edgestitch the bottom folded edge of the pocket facking to the pocket bag to keep it in place. Baste the top corner edge of the pocket facing to the pocket bag in order to keep it in place.

With right sides together, pin the pocket bag to the pocket opening on the leg and stitch.

Flip the pocket bag to the wrong side of the leg. Press and then topstitch the pocket opening, first at 2 mm then at 6 mm from the edge.

To close the pocket bag: With the leg facing down, fold the pocket bag onto itself, following the markings. Sew the bottom of the pocket bag then finish the seam allowance together. Baste the top and side of the pocket bag to the leg, 5 mm from either edge.

Serge the outside edge of the leg. Repeat the last steps for the other leg.

If you would like to use a zip fly for a more functional use or to give more relief to your overalls, consult this tutorial: https://readytosew.fr/en/journal/adding-a-zipper-fly-to-pantsoveralls-b191.html

With right sides together, pin and sew the front leg pieces at the crotch. Stitch from the notch and continue to the bottom of the crotch, passing through the circle marking. Finish the seam together.

With the pants right-side up press the fly and seam allowance to the left as worn. Topstitch the crotch seam 2 mm from the center.

With the pants right-side up, topstitch the fly. The first row should be sewn 4 cm from the center seam. Continue that row of topstitching until the end of the crotch.

The second row of topstitching should be sewn 3.6 cm from the center seam. Continue this row of topstitching until the end of the crotch.

Make two bartacks (tight zigzag stitch) at the bottom of the fly where the topstitching intersects and and when the fly is rounded (this one is optionnal).

To prepare for the assembly of the front legs and front big: With wrong sides together, fold the sides of the pockets 1 cm toward the wrong side.

Insert the pant legs in between the bib and the bib facing 2 (L). The right side of the pants should be facing the right side of the bib. Begin by aligning the center seam of the bib and the center seam of the pant legs. Pin and then sew.

Clip the corner then flip the bib toward the right side.

With the overalls facing down. Fold the bias back onto itself. Tuck the corners under the bib facing. Press the facings well.

Close the bib facings : With the overalls facing up, topstitch the facing 1 (K)- one row of topstitching only at 2 mm from the folded edge. Next, topstitch the bias and the facing 2 (L) all at once at 2 mm from the folded edge and then 6 mm. Finally, topstitch the junction between the facing (L) and legs.

With right sides together, pin the front and back leg together at the sides. Beginning at the top marking, sew to the bottom of the pant leg.

Press the seam allowance toward the front. Topstitch starting at the bottom of the pocket entrance, first at 2 mm from the seam, then a second time at 6 mm from the seam. Sew a bartack where the button placket and front leg meets. Repeat for the other side.

With right sides together, align and pin the seams of the back bib and seat.

Sew, finish the edges together then press the seam allowance to the right (as worn). Topstitch first at 2 mm from the seam, then a second time at 6 mm from the seam.

With right sides together, pin and sew the entire inseam. Finish the seam allowance together then press them to the bag. Topstitch first at 2 mm from the seam, then a second time at 6 mm from the seam.

To hem the pants, press the bottom edge of the fabric 1.5 cm to the wrong side. Turn the pressed edge under an additional 1.5 cm, press again and edgestitch in place.