Sew along, the patsy overalls
EDIT: The Patsy sewing pattern was updated on 06/07/2022 at 4 p.m. If you purchased the pattern and downloaded the pattern before this date, you do not have the updated version.
If you bought or downloaded the pattern after this date you already have the updated version.
Changes to the Patsy overalls: The pattern now has a shorts overalls view. Some modifications on range 1 only. Front pocket raised by 2 cm, waistline raised by 2 cm, the overalls are a little less opened on the sides. Back pocket lowered by 2 cm. Front bib widened by 2.5 cm. Back crotch reduced by 1 cm. Range 2 did not require any changes.
Sew along with us as we walk you through making the Patsy overalls! You will notice that the sew along can differ from the sewing instructions included with the pattern. First you’re going to need to gather the supplies you’ll need to sew a perfect Patsy! The Pépite collection was designed specifically for motivated beginners and seamstresses who love simple and quick projects. As I created this collection, I considered the following three requirements:
1 - The design must not require any notions apart from the fabric, thread and pattern (no zippers, no buttons, no snaps)
2 - All designs must be appropriate for advanced beginner to intermediate level sewers.
3 - The search for simplicity and ease in sewing should not be to the detriment of style and form.
Supplies:
- Fabric (for the fabric head back to the instructions to know what kind of fabric you need and the yardage)
- 1 bobbin of regular thread matching the fabric color
Let's start
1: To sew the back darts:Mark the dart placement on the wrong side of the fabric with tailor’s chalk or a disappearing ink marking pen.
2 : With right sides together, fold along the centerline, matching dart legs. Pin in place.
3 : Stitch dart, beginning at the sides and sewing to the dart dart point. Continue sewing past the dart point for a few stitches, without backstitching. Raise your needle, leave a thread chain of at least 30 mm. Tie the chain at the dart point and cut the threads, leaving about 10 mm after the knot. Press towards the center.
4 : Finish the four edges of the patch pockets (B).
5 : On the front side of the pocket, trace a line 15mm from the top. With wrong sides together, fold along the line. Press.
6 : On the front of the pocket, draw a line 10mm around the other sides. Fold the bottom edge once along the traced line, press and then fold the other two sides toward the center.
7 : Press the pocket.
8: Sew the top of the pocket 12 mm from the edge to keep it in place.
9 : Pin the pockets (B) on the center back pieces (A), matching the corners to the placement marks.
10 : Topstitch pocket in place 2mm from the edges.
11 : Finish the top edges of the pocket by sewing small squares to reinforce.
12 : With right sides together, sew the two back pieces (A) together along the center back seam line. Finish the edges together and press them toward the right side of the garment. Edgestitch seam.
13 : With right sides together, and matching notches, stitch pocket facing (C) to the front side leg piece (D).
14: Flip pocket facing towards wrong side of the leg.
15 : To create the pocket pouch: With right sides together, and matching notches, stitch the front piece (E) to the pocket (C). Finish the seam.
16 : Pin (or baste) the sides of the pocket to the body of the garment in order to keep it even. Repeat step 13 to 16 for the other side.
17 : With right sides together, sew the center front pieces (F). Finish the seams together and press them toward the left side of the garment. Edgestitch.
18 : With right sides together, pin center of the front piece (F) to the front sides (E, C & D). Finish the seams together and press them toward the center of the garment.
19 : With right sides together, sew the front and the back pieces at the sides. Finish the seams together and press them toward the back of the garment.
20 : With right sides together, sew the front and the back pieces at the inseam. Finish the seams together and press them toward the back of the garment.
21 : With right sides together, stitch the bib facings (G & H) together. Press seams open.
22 : Finish the bottom of the facing with matching thread or fold it 1 cm towards the wrong side and topstitch if you don’t have matching thread.
23 : With right sides together, pin the bib facing to the body.
24 : Stitch the facing to the body, stopping and backstitching at the notches. The part in between the two notches must remain open in order to insert the strap later.
25 : Clip curves and angles
26 : Turn the facing toward the wrong side. Press.
27 : Sew a row of stitches 17mm from the edge of the overall bib to create a casing for the straps and to keep the facing in place.
28 : With wrong sides together, fold your strap in half lengthwise so the edges meet in the middle. Press well.
29 : Fold the ends of the strap down 10 mm toward the wrong side of the fabric.
30: Press well
31 : Fold the strap in two again, so that the pressed edges meet in the middle. Press well. Pin the strap, in order to keep it closed and topstitch.
32 : Using a safety pin, insert the shoulder strap (l) into the front and back casings.
33 : Try on the overalls, adjust the length of the strap and tie the ends. Adjust the length of the inseam. The hem allowance is 40mm, and the garment is drafted to fall above the ankle.
34 : Creat the hem: Fold bottom hedge of the fabric 10 mm to wrong side and press. Turn the pressed edge under 30mm, press again and topstitch in place.
If you don't like the style of the knot on your strap and if you can put the Patsy overalls on and off without unknoting the strap, you can sew the strap ends together.
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