Sew along, the trench Jack, part 1
Sew along with us as we walk you through making the trench Jack! In this step by step photo sew along, we will cover the shell part of the trench sewing pattern; interfacing and sewing the tailor collar and lapels; but first you’re going to need to gather the supplies you’ll need to sew a perfect Jack!
- Fabric (for the fabric head back to the instructions to know what kind of fabric you need and the yardage)
- 1 bobbin of regular thread matching the fabric color.
- Some interfacing, this is the one I used for all the prorotypes: Entoilage tissé volumineux thermocollant - Tissus jersey & Lainages
- The fabrics used for this sew long are from Metermeter: Shell fabric: SOFT STRETCH TWILL - MOSS and lining: ABOUT A DOT - DUNE.
Front (A) : Interface all pieces as indicated in the photo above. With a chalk mark the middle of all the pieces cut on fold.
Back (B) : Interface all pieces as indicated in the photo above.
Pockets (F) : Interface all pieces as indicated in the photo above.
With right sides together, stitch the pocket flap to the pocket lining. Press seams open.
With right sides together, stitch the flap+lining to the pocket facing, leaving a gap in the middle for turning.
Trim off seam allowances, cutting across the corners and curved right up close to the stitching line.
Turn pockets right side out. Press. Pocket fabric should fold over the backside of the lining, hiding all seams.
Topstitch the flap 5mm in from the edge.
Apply the pockets to the garment fabric following the markings.
Sew. Do not stitch the flap.
Reinforce the corners by sewing a little triangle at each corners. Be sure to sew a discreet backstitch at the start.
Pinch and fold the fabric right along the fold line. Then, bring your fold over to the center back. Repeat for the opposite side. Press. Baste stitch the pleat.
With right sides together, stitch the back yoke B to the back C.
Press seams open.
Serge the straight edge of the storm flap lining.
With right sides together, stitch the bottom lining to the bottom storm flap.
Turn right side out. Press. Topstitch 5mm in from the edge.
Baste stitch the storm flap to the back.
With right sides together, stitch the bottom back D to the top back. Press seams open.
With right sides together, stitch the sides of the front and back bodice. Press seams open.
Cut the right side diagonally as shown in the above diagram.
Fold the four sides on 1cm.
Topstitch the ends 5mm in from the edge.
Open the jacket and stitch the belt following the markings. The diagonal end must be 1cm from the edge. Reinforce the corners as shown on the photo above.
With right sides together stitch the front and back facing together. Press seams open.
Staystitch the facing neckline between the dot 2 and the shoulder seam and clip the seam allowance.
Stitch the upper collar and facing right sides together matching the notches. Stitch between the first two dots, clipping the facings seam allowance at the second dot to allow pivoting. It is very important to start your line at the exact place of the first dot (Dot A on the diagram in the sewing pattern's instructions).
Stitch between the second dot on the right side and second dot on left side. Match the shoulder line and third dot and center notches. Clip the facing seam allowance to allow pivoting. Stitch between the second dot and dot A. Finish your line with a back tack at the exact place of the dot A.
Press seams open.
With right sides together stitch the front and back bodice shoulders together. Press seams open.
Stitch the under collar pieces right sides together. Press seams open.
Stitch the under collar and bodice right sides together matching the notches. Repeat the steps from the upper collar and facing.
Stitch the upper and the under collar together starting at 3 cm from the point A. On the collar sides, leave a gap of 1.2 cm for the ribbon casing as shown in the photo below.
Pin the dots A from the upper and under collar together. Make sure all seam allowances are out of the way. Pick up your stitching line right where you left it (3 cm above the dot A) and stitch until you hit dot A. Back stitch.
Pin the dots A from the lapels (facing and bodice) together. Make sure all seam allowances are out of the way. Start your stitching line from the bottom of the jacket and stitch until you hit dot A. Back stitch.
Turn right side out and press.
Stitch the bodice and facing neckline seam allowances together to prevent the necklines from moving separetly. You can stitch them only on a few centimeters.
Topstitch the collar 1.2cm from the edge. Insert the ribbon in the casing to gather the collar.
Fold the three sides on 1cm. Topstitch the end 5mm in from the edge.
Open the sleeve and stitch the wrist bracelet following the markings (the bottom edge of the wrist bracelet should be touching the line). Ribbons must be inserted in the casings before sewing the side sleeve.
Reinforce the corners.
With right sides together, stitch the sides of the sleeve.
Press seams open.
Turn the sleeve right side out, and turn the garment wrong side out. Place the sleeve inside the armhole and match up the side seams with right sides facing. Align notches. This sleeve has no ease. Sew the sleeve to the garment 1cm from the raw edge. Press seams open.
Well done, you deserve a cup of tea to celebrate that !
Follow the second part of the sew along here.
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