Valley, shortening/lengthening

list In Alterations & Pattern hackings On

The Valley jumpsuit is drafted for an average hight of 168 cm (5’6”) so if you differ from that, you might need to do some pattern adjustments. Lengthening and shortening your pattern pieces is pretty straighforward, find the lengthen/shorten lines and apply your length changes between them. 

  • Line 1: you will want to work from this line if you need to alter the length between the bust and waist.  
  • Line 2 : you will want to work from this line to alter the length between the waist andfull hips.
  • Line 3 : you will want to work from these lines if you need to alter leg length.

If you have a long or short rise you may want to only adjust the middle portion using the line 2. Maybe your rise fits great but you have long legs, in that case you’d want to adjust the lower portion using the lines 3. If you’re proportioned evenly but are just taller or shorter than the pattern is drafted then we recommend splitting the amount you need to adjust between the 3 adjustment lines. Usually, if you are for example 8 cm taller/shorter than the pattern is drafted for, you will need to add a total of 8 cm to the pattern pieces, splitting the amount in 3 to adjust your pattern equally. 

Step 1 and 2: Determine how much length you need to add or substract from your pattern. Simply cut along the shorten/lengthen line, separating the pattern into several pieces.

Step 3 and 4: Lay a sheet of paper down with the pattern pieces on top of it and line up the pattern's grain lines. Tape your pattern pieces down to the paper (or, if shortening, to each other) and blend the curve or straight edge to connect either edge of the pattern. Cut off the excess paper.

Happy sewing!

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