Pablo, how to fix a gaping bib

You are done with the toile of the Pablo overalls just to find that the front fold is gaping, don't worry, we are here to help ! Sewing a small dart will be enough to fix this problem and the bib will be perfectly flattened on your bust.

We will be working from Brigitte's toile to show you how to pinch the fabric to form a dart. Brigitte fall in size 36 for the bust and full hip and size 40 for the waist. She followed the tutorial to grade between size and adjust the pattern to her measurements but she ended up with this the bib gaping at the front.

Step 1 : pinch the excess of fabric.

Step 2: Once you are satified with the dart placement, pin in place.

NOTE: you can do this before sewing the finishing band if you prefer. To help you visualize, the finishing band has been unstitched on the left of the garment and the fabric pinched to form the dart.

I strongly recommand sewing the finishing band to allow an optimal fit check because the band will also form the straps and will help you place the garment on your body. Placing the garment correctly will help you then place the dart correctly. If you place the garment too low on your waist then the bib gaping can be even stronger. 

On the left (as worn) the biais was unstitched.

Step 3: mark the dart with a chalk or a pen.

By unfolding, you get the outline of a dart.

Step 4: Transfer the dart on the sewing pattern piece (A).

To transfer the dart on the sewing pattern, pin the bib to the paper pattern. You could also use pattern weights. 

Place the side seam of the overalls 1 cm from the edge of the paper pattern to account for the seam allowance.

The overalls probably no longer have the exacte same shape as the paper pattern, it's ok just do your best.

Align the overalls and paper pattern center seam and then moove the overalls 1 cm to the inside to account for the seam allowance.

Place the overalls dart in the center of the paper pattern dart.

The edge of the bib is aligned with the edge of the paper pattern.

Step 5: Using a roller and a piece of carbon paper (or whatever you have on hand), transfer the dart to the paper pattern.

Step 6: To form the dart head, trace the center of the dart then tape a big piece of paper under.

Close the dart. Redraw the seam.

Step 7 : cut the excess of paper.

Open up the dart and voilà !

Step 8: To sew the hidden pencil pocket, follow the top of the marking and ignore the bottom of the line.

That's it, the overalls are now perfectly adjusted to your bust. Don't forget to sew the darts on the right side of the fabric. Once the overalls are worn, the fold of the bib shows the wrong side of the fabric so you have to sew the darts on the right side. For the rest, follow the instructions.

Brigitte's final overalls are made from a pre-loved linen bed sheet and home dyed. 

Happy sewing !