Pleat, how to rectify the alignment of the folds and waistline

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Depending on your fabric choice, whether it has a tight or loose weave, you may end up with the top of the pleats not lining up with the waistline. The center front of pieces (B) and (C) is cut on the bias and if your fabric has a fairly loose weave, the fabric may move. This can happen with a linen with a loose weave, you shouldn't have this problem with cotton poplin.

Here's how to fix the problem.

As you can see in the photo above, the two pleats that will later form the front wrap do not line up with the waistline. The fabric  has stretched out of shape.

Overlap the center front of the paper pattern piece (A) over the center front of your fabric pattern piece (B) or (C) and check how much the fabric has stretched.

We can see that the fabric has stretched about 1,2 cm. The center front of (A) and (B) or (C) must have the same length for assembly so we will rectify that by cutting the top part (pleats included) by 1,2 cm. We can see that the pleats have stretched out of shape much more than the rise, we won't be able to rectify more than 1,2 cm but this should already improve the fit.

Fabric right side facing you, folds closed, mark the top of fold 1 with a line at 1.2 cm from the raw edge then join the top of fold 2.

Cut the fabric. Later on, we'll "force" the alignment of the pleats with the waistline. If the fabric hasn't stretched too much, it shouldn't be a problem for the fit.

That's it, you can now come back where you stoped on the instruction booklet.

Tags: pleat


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