Sew along, the blazer Joe, part 3

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Sew along with us as we walk you through all the steps to sew a perfect lining onto your blazer Joe.

Stitch 2 rows of basting stitches on the cap sleeve. 

Stitch the under sleeve and upper sleeve right sides together. Press seams open. Depending on your fabric, you may have to ease the sleeve sides a little during the assembly.

Turn the sleeve right side out, and turn the garment wrong side out.

Place the sleeve inside the armhole and match all notches, at the back match the sleeve back seam to the back princess seam. Ease in the sleeve cap. 

Sew the sleeve to the garment 1 cm from the raw edge. Press seams.

Try on your garment and make adjustements if necessary. Folding the armhole and sleeve seam allowances against the bodice or the sleeve cap can make a big difference. Choose your favorite option. Serge the seams together and understitch (approx a 4cm line around the shoulder notch).

Stitch the back lining pieces right sides together. Stitch along the lines at top and bottom. Press the pleat toward the right. Baste the pleat in place at the top and bottom edges.

Stitch the back and side back lining pieces right sides together. Stitch the front and side front lining pieces right sides together. Press seams open.

With right sides together, stitch the front and back lining, leaving one side open about 15 cm. Press seam allowances open.

Close the sleeves and stitch them to the bodice following the same process than the jacket shell.

Stitch the bodice and facing neckline seam allowances together to prevent the necklines from moving separetly. You can stitch them only on a few centimeters.

Open the jacket shell with right side facing you. The sleeves must be wrong side out.

With right sides together, pin the lining and facing. Stitch the the lining and facing together.

Star and stop your stitching line at the bottom dots. 

Turn the edges of the sleeve shell up about 3cm. Insert the sleeve shell into the sleeve lining matching seams and making sure neither the jacket nor lining is twisted. Stitch the two layers together and repeat for the other side.

With right sides together, sew the bottom part of the bodice and the facing. 

  1. Make sure the seam allowance goes toward the facing. 
  2. Fold the 1 cm seam allowance of the loose hem
  3. Stitch at 1 cm from the bottom.

Attach the bottom of the lining and the bottom of the bodice right sides together. Stitch at 1cm from the bottom.

Turn the jacket right side out.

Press the pleat and the jacket hem. Handstitch the little opening between the facing and bodice.

Tack the hem seam allowance to the jacket seam allowances at side back, back and side front. Give a good press to the jacket and the sleeves hems. Close the side opening.

Stitch the buttonhole on the right side of the jacket and the button on the left side. Following the markings on the front pattern piece. Choose a button of 2,2 cm diameter for a 2,5 cm buttonhole.

Give your garment a good final press and wear it with pride!

Tags: joe


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