Sew along, the Partner overalls, part 1

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Sew along with us as we walk you through making the Partner overalls! You will probably notice that the sew along differs a little from the sewing instructions included in your download, don't worry, the final result is the same. First you’re going to need to gather the supplies you’ll need to sew a perfect Partner!

Supplies:

Fabric (for the fabric head back to the instructions to know what kind of fabric you need and the yardage)
Fabric used for this sew along is a Hemp / Organic Cotton Denim darkblue, approx. 230 g/sqm from Siebenblau 
The facing is an organic coton poplin, 130 g/sqm from Rascol.

  • -Drawstring cord 5 mm (3/16") diameter
  • -2 metal eyelets 5 mm (3/16") internal diameter
  • -One pair of 4 cm (1.5”) overall buckles & buttons
  • -One pair of 4 cm (1.5”) adjustable sliders
  • -16 cm (6 5/16") of 4 cm (1.5”) wide elastic
  • -2 cord ends
  • -1 x Matching thread
  • -1 x Contrasting thread

Additional information:

  • -Always topstich with the garment right sides up.
  • -Use topstitch thread as your spool only (on top of your machine), with regular thread that matches your fabric in the bobbin.
  • -Lengthen the stitches to 3.5 or 4 mm to create a straighter-looking line.
  • -Choose a matching thread to serge the bib facing and the waist of the pants.

Line the top of the pocket (B). With right sides together, sew the lining (D) and the pocket (B) together at the top and inside (leaving open the edge that will be caught in the seam).

Clip the curves and trim the corners. 

Turn right side out, press well, ensuring the angles and edges are smooth.

Fold and press the raw edges of the pocket 1 cm to the wrong side. Do not press the left side of the pocket, which will be caught in the side seam of the pants. Start by folding the side edge of the pocket, followed by the bottom edge of the pocket.

Line the top of the pocket (A). With right sides together, sew the lining (C) and the pocket (A) together. Clip the curves and trim the corners. 

Turn right side out, press well, ensuring the angles and edges are smooth.

Fold and press the raw edges of the pocket 1cm to the wrong side. Start by folding the side edges of the pocket, followed by the bottom edge of the pocket.

Topstitch the pockets openings.  The first row of topstitching should be 2 mm from the edge and the second row of topstitching should be 4 mm from the first row. 

NOTE: The sew along differs from the instruction booklet but the final result is the same.

With right sides together, sew the center back leg pieces (F). Finish the seams together and press to the right. Topstitch the seams. The first row of topstitching should be 2 mm from the edge and the second row of topstitching should be 4 mm from the first row.

Back patch pocket (G): Serge the sides and bottom of the pocket

Press the top of the pocket to the wrong side by 1  cm.

Turn the pocket over so you can see the front and press the top down by 1.5 cm, right sides together. 

Sew a row of stitches 1 cm from the edge to keep the folds in place.

Clip the upper corners.

Turn the pocket right side out and press the other sides of the pocket to the wrong side by 1 cm. Start by folding the side edges of the pocket, followed by the bottom edge of the pocket. 

Topstitch the top of the pocket.  The first row of topstitching should be 8 mm from the top edge and the second row of topstitching should be 4 mm from the first row. 

Pin the pocket to the back left leg (F), matching up the markings.  Topstitch the pocket in place, around the two sides and bottom of the pocket. The first row of topstitching should be 2 mm from the top edge and the second row of topstitching should be 4 mm from the first row. To reinforce the pocket, make a tight zigzag stitch on the corners of the top of the pocket.

With right sides together, sew the center front leg pieces (E). Finish the seams together and press to the left. Topstitch the seams. The first row of topstitching should be 2 mm from the edge and the second row of topstitching should be 4 mm from the first row.  

Pin the left pocket (B) to the left leg, matching the markings. Topstitch around two sides of the pocket- leaving open the top of the pocket and the left side of the pocket, which will be caught in the seam. The first row should be 2 mm from the folded edge,  and the second row of topstitching should be 4 mm from the first row.  

Following the marking on the pocket pattern piece, sew two lines of topstitching to visually separate the pocket in half and create the pocket pouch. The second line of topstitching should be 3 mm from the first one.

Along the bottom of the pocket, made two tight zigzag stitches (divide the bottom width by 3) as well as the angles at the top of the pocket.

With right sides together, pin the front right leg to the back right leg (those that don’t yet have pockets) at the side.

Finish the seam allowances together and press to the back.

Topstitch the seam allowances, stopping just after the pocket opening.  The line of top stitching should be 2 mm from the seam.  Finish top stitching with a tight, narrow zigzag stitch.

NOTE: You can do this step at the end if you want to adjust the pants at hip level.

Turn the pants so that the right side is up.  Pin the pocket (A) to the right leg of the pants, matching the markings.  The pocket will wrap around the back, which is intentional.
Topstitch the pocket on the three sides, leaving the pocket opening open.  The first row should be 2 mm from the folded edge,  and the second row of topstitching should be 4 mm from the first row.  

Following the marking on the pocket pattern piece, sew two lines of topstitching to visually separate the pocket in half and create the pocket pouch. The second line of topstitching should be 3 mm from the first one. 
Sew two lines of topstitching on the back to create the pencil pocket (refer to the guideline on the pattern).

Sew a tight, narrow zigzag stitch on the top and bottom of the pocket. Along the bottom of the pocket, made two tight zigzag stitches towards the front of the pocket (same as the left pocket step 19) and one zigzag stitch toward the back of the pocket.

On the pocket top make a zigzag stitch at each angle and another one at the top of the pencil pocket.

With right sides together, pin the front left leg to the back left leg at the side. Finish the seam allowances together and press to the back. Topstitch the seam allowances, stopping right after the pocket opening.  The line of top stitching should be 2 mm from the seam.  Finish top stitching with a tight, narrow zigzag stitch.

NOTE: You can do this step at the end if you want to adjust the pants at hip level.

Range 2: Sew the front waist darts

With right sides together, pin and sew the front and back legs together at the inseam. Finish the seam allowances together and press to the back. Turn the pants right side out and topstitch the inseam allowances 2 mm from the initial seam to reinforce. Stitch as far as you can.

To hem the pants, press the bottom of each pant leg to the wrong side by 1 cm.  Press again by 3 cm and topstitch. The first row of stitching should be 28 mm from the folded edge,  and the second row of topstitching should be 4 mm below the first row.  

Serge the raw edge of the waist.

Well done, you've finished the bottom part of the overalls, click here to follow the part 2 of the sew along !

Tags: partner

Comments

Created On lundi, août 2, 2021 Posted By Readytosew Comment Link
Thank you so much for your kind words Gillian!
Created On vendredi, juillet 30, 2021 Posted By Gillian Lee Comment Link
Wow these are easily the nicest dungarees I've ever seen. Very thoughtful design... particularly like the added elastic in the straps to make it easier to bend over. I love all the stitch details too. They look great on different sizes of people too. Superb!

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