The Parnter overalls - guest blogger

My intention has always been to design patterns for a variety of bodies, with different fabrics, but it’s difficult for me as a one-person company to coordinate and pay more than two models, and sew multiple prototypes for each pattern launch. I know how important it is to see different versions of a pattern for my customers so I've decided to welcome paid guest bloggers for each pattern launch !

Today we welcome Clotilde (@couture_and_clo) for the Partner overalls expansion pack.

My name is Clotilde, I live near Arcachon Bay in France, and I’ve been sewing for 12 years. Most of my wardrobe is handsewn: coats, pants, even underwear - nothing is safe! With time and experience, I’ve rationalised my way of consuming: buy less, but better. This also applies to fabric and sewing patterns :). I like to be organised, have a pretty detailed picture of what’s missing from my wardrobe, and stick to my sewing schedule with varying degrees of success. I’ve already sewn Readytosew patterns, more specifically, the Patsy overalls and the Jocko pullover, so I know the quality of the brand. I was thus delighted when Raphaëlle suggested I contribute to her blog, for which I thank her again.

The pattern that I sewed for this article is the Partner overalls, plus the additional details. The overalls are practical and comfortable as they can be pulled on in no time thanks to the elasticated waist pleat. The extended version of the pattern includes two front pockets, two patch pockets on the back, reinforcement pieces on the front thighs, and also a fake fly that looks real! At first glance, no real technical difficulty for such a detailed garment, but there is double topstitching throughout. 

To sew the extended version of the pattern, you have to buy the original one, so that means printing the two different patterns (* you only need to print the bib parts from the original pattern). One thing I particularly liked: the size range is divided into two distinct sheets, so your printing plate isn’t overloaded with information. I printed the two patterns in their A4 format, which is still quite a lot of paper…you win some, you lose some. (Don’t panic, Raphaëlle also provides them in A0 format!) To get a clear picture, I put the extended version together first, then I tried to find the missing pieces on the basic pattern (front and back panels, straps, ....) to avoid assembling the entire thing. 

I’m 1.69m and my measurements are 104, 84, 104. As I’m across three distinct sizes, I used the layering system when printing the pattern to focus on those sizes: 44/45/46. I had already sewn the Patsy overalls in size 46 on top and tapered the hips in size 44; the fit was perfect. Based on that positive experience, I didn’t think it was worth making a toile. However, this time, I chose the half-size option for the entire garment - 45 - given the Partner overalls size is flexible and I could easily adjust them.

Concerning my choice of material, I hesitated for a long time over the denim, because I love traditional overalls in light denim, but couldn’t find the right fabric in time to make this garment. In the end, I opted for my second choice: a fairly flexible cotton serge in this khaki green, which is not my usual choice, but I love it. The topstitching was another dilemma (I’m very indecisive) between tone-on-tone or contrast. As the khaki goes beautifully with mustard, I went for contrast, fully aware that it would be clearly visible: a lot of pressure :D. For the back, I decided to use elastic - wonderfully comfortable - to extend the straps. I chose lurex elastic (a little bit leftover from my lingerie projects), which livens up the sober green. 

The instructions were perfect. I followed the instruction booklet to the letter and had no doubts; I didn’t even need to refer to the step-by-step photo instructions available in the blog. I really appreciated being guided down to the finest detail, to the topstitching spacing in millimetres. You can then just focus on the creative process and the topstitching, which is so relaxing to sew (am I the only one who likes that? Please help me out here). The overalls are beautiful, and they’re as neat outside as inside. 

I did make two small modifications that I should mention: I didn’t sew the eyelets. I’ve had a bad run with eyelets - each time I’ve fitted them they have come loose - so I chose the button option (which is mentioned in the instruction booklet, so it’s not really a modification). I decided to tighten the waist differently: I put elastic in the hem (much more comfortable than a cord around the waist for me) and I also inserted a cord, which I pulled through the two buttonholes. This gives the impression that the cord is tightening the waist, but actually not at all :). That’s my little secret, there you have it! 

With this pattern, I was able to make overalls with a perfect finish, which were incredibly comfortable - as I like them. I must admit, I really loved all the topstitching. At the end, when you pull the overalls on, you really feel like you’ve made a showpiece, and have put the time and love into creating them. I’m also not the only one who loves them at my place - my partner is very jealous… I couldn’t resist taking photos of them with different clothes, to show that this colour goes well with several other previously sewn garments, but those are just for my own reference :). Many thanks to Raphaëlle for your trust and for giving me this rewarding experience. I wish you all beautiful creations with Readytosew patterns.