Sewing Jim's fly

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In this tutorial we are going to tackle the crotch and also the fly. The button fly on the pattern Jim is really easy to sew. If you have never sewn a fly before all, this is a really good first one to start on. The process is the same for the skirt variation too.


First we are going to finish the seam allowances of each crotch separately. I am going to serge them. They have to be done separately now so that they can be pressed open once stitched.

- Transfer the fly notch.

-  Interface and then finish the edge of the left fly with either a zig zag stitch or serger.

- Stitch the right fly rectangles right sides together. Sew along one of the long edges and one of the small edges. Clip the corner and trim the seam allowance. Turn right side out. Press. Serge the raw edges.


Pin the two fronts along the crotch seam (or center seam for the skirt) with right sides touching. Stitch until you get to the dot on center front. Backstitch at dot to secure.


With right sides facing, pin the straight edge of the left fly to the center front edge of the left short/pant/skirt. Let the right front fall down and out of the way during this step. I like to put one pin right at the dot to help me know where to stop stitching.

Stitch from the top down to the dot and stop, backstitching. 

Press seam open. Flip the left fly to the inside of the left front and press.


Starting at the top of the pant, sew the curved topstitching down the left fly, backstitching at the end. Sew at 1cm from the curve edge.


Pin the right fly to the right front. Let the left side fall down and out of the way.

Stitch from the waistline down until the dot. Backstitch to secure. Make sure that you are not catching the edge of the left fly in the process.


Pin the fly so that everything is laying flat and lined up. To help secure the fly, sew a small bartack through all layers at the bottom of the curved stitching. Use a zigzag width of about 2.5mm and length of about 0.2mm.

Voilà! C'est terminé!

Tags: jim fly


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