How to sew Jeanne'sleeves

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While many sleeves are set "in the round", as tubes inserted into pre-stitched armholes, Jeanne’s sleeves are stitched “on the flat”, before the underarm seams of the sleeve and side seams of the bodice have been sewn.


Lay your bodice out flat so you can see both the front and back, with the right side of the fabric facing up. Place the left sleeve next to the left armhole and the right sleeve next to the right armhole, matching up notches (The single notch indicate the back of the garment, the double notches the front). Pin the sleeves in place right sides together.


The fabric won’t lie flat as you’re bringing the raw edges of the sleeve and armhole together – you kinda have to mould it to fit.Serge if you are using a serger or set your sewing machine to a zigzag stitch. Stitch the sleeve to the armhole, taking your time to navigate the curves without stretching out the fabric. Try not to sew the pressed shoulder seam allowances down the wrong way. (The soulder seam allowance must be towards the back).


Press the seam allowance towards the neckline.  Press the sleeve cap really flat on both wrong and right sides of the fabric. 

You should end up with something like this.

STEP 4 :

Here is the difference between a pressed sleeve and one that has just been sewn.


Place the front bodice on top of the back bodice, right sides together. Pin together the underarm and side seams, starting at the points where the sleeves meet the bodice and pinning the rest of the seam. The sleeve seam allowance must be pinned towards the the inside of your garment. Stitch each side seam from the end of the sleeve to either the hemline of the dress or Tshirt keeping the seam allowance of the sleeve towards the inside of your garment.

Voilà! now you can go try your Jeanne on and have a look in the mirror.

Tags: jeanne sleeve


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